Using the correct form of an active ingredient is essential as it plays an active role in anti-aging efficacy. Active ingredients are continually researched and tested and are consistently proven to be the most effective form.
Another important factor that impacts the effectiveness of the active ingredient within a product, is the pH. pH is the ‘power of hydrogen’ and indicates how acidic, neutral or alkaline a solution is. The pH is measured in aqueous solutions, with the value between 0-14 and 7 (neutral) being the middle of the scale.
Acidic products have a pH value under 7 while Alkaline products have a pH value over 7, with water having a neutral pH value of 7. Lemon juice is highly acidic at pH:2 and soapy water, alkaline at the other end of the scale at pH:12.
The Most Effective Forms of Active Ingredients
Retinol is the most effective version of Vitamin A. It is a powerful multitasking anti-aging ingredient.
- restores skin smooths wrinkles
- aids in cell turnover
- increases collagen production
- increases skin firmness
- acts as an antioxidant
It is important when using a product containing retinol that it has been formulated to maximised effectiveness whilst not irritating the skin.
There are 8 groups of Vitamin B that are essential for many functions within the body, specifically Niacinamide (B3), D-Panthenol (B5) and Folic Acid (B9) are essential for skincare functionality. The standout amongst the B vitamins is Niacinamide which is multi-skilled powerhouse providing many effective benefits to all skin types.
- niacinamide stimulates collagen production
- targets pigmentation
- boosts skin’s immunity to UV
- has been scientifically proven to be effective in treating mild to moderate acne and rosacea
For best results, it is essential to recommend a product with a Niacinamide concentration of 10%
In its purest form Vitamin C, Ascorbic Acid, is known as one of the most potent antioxidants to help fight free radicals damage. L-Ascorbic acid is the only form of Vitamin C that the body can utilise.
- promote and stimulate the skin’s natural collagen production
- plumps the skin
- improves skin tone and texture
Ascorbic Acid requires a much lower pH than Retinol for effectiveness, penetration and stability. It has been shown that L-Ascorbic Acid should be formulated at pH levels less than 3.5 to enter the skin and also the maximum concentration for optimum percutaneous absorption, performance and effectiveness is 20%.
Article extract from Professional Beauty Nov-Dec 2019, p. 72 https://www.professionalbeauty.com.au/beauty/skincare/the-simple-truth-about-skincare/